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In 2004, Sam Tranum moved to Turkmenistan, an isolated, totalitarian petrostate bordering Iran and Afghanistan, to serve as a Peace Corps Volunteer. That same year, the Economist magazine predicted his new home would be the worst place in the world to live, despite the fact that its leader, known as Turkmenbashy, insisted that his country was experiencing a Golden Age. This is the story of Tranum's nearly two years in Turkmenistan, dodging secret police, exploring ancient Silk Road cities, covertly teaching classes on democracy and human rights, and learning to appreciate fermented camel's milk. The Kindle version contains 19 photographs of Turkmenistan.
- Sales Rank: #803520 in eBooks
- Published on: 2010-09-26
- Released on: 2010-09-26
- Format: Kindle eBook
Review
"Beautifully written, and with plenty of anecdotes from his time in the country, Tranum merges recent history with that of daily Turkmen life and traditions." --Open Central Asia magazine (Spring/Summer 2011)
"Visits to ancient Silk Road cities and run-ins with secret police along with covert operations to spread his views on human rights and democracy all make for a fascinating read." --Open Central Asia magazine (Spring/Summer 2011)
"For two years, Tranum lived [in Turkmenistan] with host families, outside of the capital, Ashgabat, deeper than most foreigners go in one of the most closed societies in the world." --Transitions Online (April 22, 2011)
"Further reading" -- US Defense Language Institute Foreign Language Center's "Turkmen Cultural Orientation" publication, 2012
"Engaging and perceptive account of two years' work and travel in Turkemenistan from a then Peace Corps volunteer. The best of a crop of volunteer memoirs of Central Asia." --Lonely Planet guide to Central Asia
From the Author
Although Amazon's publish-on-demand service has been great, I am looking for a regular publisher for this book. Feel free to contact me at samtranum (at) gmail.com.
About the Author
Sam Tranum served as a Peace Corps Volunteer in Turkmenistan from 2004 to 2006, and taught journalism at the American University of Central Asia in Kyrgyzstan from 2007 to 2009. He has worked as a staff reporter at the Charleston Daily Mail in West Virginia and the South Florida Sun-Sentinel in Florida, and freelanced for publications including the St. Petersburg Times, the Christian Science Monitor, and Literarytraveler.com. He earned a B.A. in social and global studies from Antioch College, and an M.A. in international relations from the University of Chicago. He's currently reporting on energy and politics in Washington, DC.
Most helpful customer reviews
9 of 10 people found the following review helpful.
A Very Good Book
By Dick Miles
Mr. Tranum was a Peace Corps Volunteer(PCV) in Turkmenistan from 2004 until 2006, i.e., while the autocratic ruler Saparmurat Niyazov, better known as Turkmenbashi--Father of the Turkmen--was still alive. I served as Charge (temporary Ambassador) of the U.S. Embassy, 2008-2009, so our paths did not cross. After Niyazov's death in late 2006, Turkmenistan changed to a slight degree--and for the better--under Niyazov's successor, Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow. All that is to say that I found Mr. Tranum's very well written book quite relevant in describing the difficult, frustrating and, on occasion, rewarding life of many of the PCVs that I came to know in Turkmenistan. He describes in convincing detail the stifling nature of the all pervading bureaucracy and the petty corruption which has made grass roots progress so difficult to achieve in this admittedly extremely conservative society. He also throws in some nicely researched history.
At the same time he describes Turkmenistan itself in such a realistic manner that I could sometimes remember precisely the sound and smell and the very look of the countryside, the markets and the health clinics where many of our PCVs still are assigned and, above all, the meals so lovingly prepared and served by this most hospitable people.
It adds great versimilitude that Mr. Tranum does not hesitate to put in writing his own indiscretions and cultural mistakes. We all make them when we are abroad but we don't usually record them for everyone to read. Bravo to Mr. Tranum for proving that he is an honest observer.
One final note. I have become somewhat obsessive about the lack of proper editing in the publishing world these days. I think it is something of a national disgrace. I don't know whether Mr. Tranum did his own editing or whether his publisher arranged it, but this book is remarkably free of the errors, typos, non-sequiters and the like which seem to fill many of the newly published books I read nowadays.
6 of 6 people found the following review helpful.
"Couldn't Put It Down"
By Juliane K. Bailey
No, this book did not make me want to include Tukmenistan in a planned trip through the "-stans". BUT, to my surprise, this slim little power-packed book refused to let me put it down.
It is an unusually well-written example of that generally underwhelming niche genre: political awakening accounts by young American community development volunteers posted to developing countries. They have been around since the'60's and the heady American-idealism-can solve-it-all times of the Alliance for Progress mindset.
But this example is the best I've come across yet: gripping, funny, often ruefully painful and sometimes just infuriating as the author, Sam Tranum, a young middle class idealist of a Peace Corps volunteer, confronts the realities of carrying out community improvement projects in the hyper-paranoaic milieu of a post-Soviet dictatorship rife with petty to high level corruption, inaction, ignorance and, at times, the very real threat to him of personal danger. But Sam just keeps going on, day after day, refusing to give up or to acknowledge reality, figuring out how to elude the authorities and visit forbidden sites around Turkmenistan, organizing summer camps where democracy is tentatively on the agenda, putting up health posters, going for grants that he comes to realize will never produce the desired outcome, and building deep personal relationships with members of his host families, even as they sometimes splinter apart before his eyes under the almost intolerable pressures of "making do"on a daily basis. He comes very close to despair and describes a growing desire to just call it quits and hie on home. Happily,for the reader, he stays on.
Sam Tranum has all the makings of a gifted travel writer, although this narrative is much more than a descriptive book of travels through exotic countries, it is a hands-on participative account of trying to get good stuff done in a country ruled by an all-controlling dictatorship. Sam's skill as a writer is his ability to transform remarkable attention to detail into a bleakly fascinating narrative.
He is a gentle but fiercely honest observer of human foibles, determined traveler and discoverer of everything there is to see and do in a probably the last place on earth anyone young and creative would want to live, a buster of obstacles, bureaucratic and otherwise, and a properly outraged commentator on corruption and barriers to human potential that don't need to be there.
Sam is also a good researcher who sets a historical context, weaving facts and figures about Turkmenistan's history, sociology and present-day way of life into his story so seamlessly that the narrative flows like fiction. I was impressed with the utter richness of detail in the book. He must have kept very thorough notes. Above all, Sam's humanity emerges clearly. It is a terrific book and a great read. And after you have read it, you don't need to go to Turkmenistan. You've been there, done that through the eyes of the right person to have experienced and then described it all.
3 of 3 people found the following review helpful.
Welcome to Turkmenistan!
By N. Jacobs
Chances are, if you've heard of Turkmenistan, you've heard of Turkmenbasy (aka: Saparmurat Niyazov), the eccentric former president of Turkmenistan, and his absolutely off the wall laws. But what would it be like to live in those conditions? Sam Tranum answers this question for us. The only flaw is that Turkmenistan comes across as any other corrupt, despotic country.
I've been living in Russia for two years now, so I can certainly sympathize with a lot of his experiences from bureauocracy, unreliable transport and being ripped off. But Turkmenistan is definitely a stranger country, with a lot of absolutely fascinating sites like a massive irrigation canal built through the heart of the desert, crumbling prehistoric ruins of early Indo-European civilization, a burning crater, and of course, self-flattering monuments of Turkmenbasy himself.
The reason that this book gets a five star rating is that Sam Tranum has excellently woven enough history into the narrative of his two year Turkemenistan experience. I came away feeling like I had actually been there, and plowed through the book in just a matter of days (while riding around on unreliable Russian transport, I may add). Though the subject matter will hit home best with other expats who have lived or are living in similar countries, even those who don't travel much would walk away with a good understanding of Turkemenistan, as experienced by a Westerner.
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